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This is a guide to help you look for the specific issues with the Calibra Turbo. There are general Calibra guides available, and these should be referred to as well.
DO NOT FALL IN LOVE WITH THE CAR, JUST 'COS IT'S A TURBO
General View of the car
• Is it looked after? The turbo DOES need care and attention, so if the general look is tatty then it is likely that the parts that NEED looking after have been neglected.
Walk around the car, look at the finish of the paint work, note (but do not comment on) the following:
Body work
• Tyres (condition, tread depth, wear on inside edge, make and type - MUST be the same!)
The tyres NEED to be within 2mm difference between axles and the SAME tread depth on the same axle. This is because the TX box will overheat and eventually die if the rolling diameters of the wheels are different.
• Exhaust (condition, signs of smoking)
• Wheels (general condition, curbed?)
• Is the car lowered? If so, look at the camber of the wheels... note how they look - non-adjusted they act like tyres of different tread depth front to rear.
Internal
• Are all the expected fittings there? (oil, volt gauges – standard on late models only)
• Look at the pedals, the drivers seat and gators (handbrake and gear lever) for wear
Pop the bonnet
• Is the engine warm? (it may be a good idea to ask the owner NOT to run the engine for a couple of hours before you arrive)
• Look for oil leaks (gearbox, head gasket, cam cover gasket)
• Look at the accumulator bulb - (situated on the rear bulkhead to the right of centre) does it have a white ring? If no,t is it UNLIKELY to have been changed.
• Check condition of PAS fluid (should be red and clear)
• Look at the actuator, check condition, check adjustment - try and move the actuator arm by hand (you should not be able to)
• Look for K&N cone filter... not good if unshielded as Turbo do not like HOT air
• Check hose condition (air hoses, coolant hoses) air hose to turbo important, if it is soft when cold it could collapse under full boost.
• Check condition of coolant in expansion tank, look for mayo, (mixture of oil and water) squeeze coolant hoses to push water around. Mayo indicates a porous head, or head gasket problems, not the end of the world, but more expense.
• The sump gasket goes on these engines, as does the distributor o-ring, check for leaks here.
Start the engine
When starting, PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. The 4x4 light WILL STAY ON if you do this. If it does not, WALK AWAY, or ask for at least £1000 off the asking price (cost of a box, fitted)
Look for the 4x4 light – if it doesn’t light at all, just go. The owner is trying to pull a fast one, and there are better cars out there.
Check all lights go out except for the brake check light, and the handbrake light. Press the brake pedal, that light should now go out.
Stop the engine straight away and restart after that test
Listen to the tappets, they may be noisy on start up (from cold), this is expected, but should go quiet after 5 minutes.
Run the engine and look under the bonnet for smoke, listen for noisy bits, wait for the tappets to quiet down.
Stop the engine
Remove the PAS reservoir cover, turn the ignition ON (lights on the dash will be on) and press brake pedal, you will hear a WHOOSH noise, bit subtle but it is there. You should hear 25+ WHOOSHES; (once every time you press the brake pedal) if you hear less than this, then the TXB pressure is not being relieved correctly... again this is a major potential problem.
Check the level of the fluid now – it should reach the COLD level
Start the engine again
Rev it, have friend check for smoke from exhaust.
DO NOT COVER THE EXHAUST TO CHECK FOR BACK PRESSURE. This is a bad thing for a turbo!
Air-conditioning
With engine running does the engine note change when A/C button is pressed and does the light come on? Does the air coming from the vent seem noticeably colder after one minute?
Oil pressure
This should be at approx 2-2.5 bar on tick-over, rising to approx 4.5bar on full load.
Test drive.
You will hear turbo owners bang on about how much faster their cars are.
Trust me. They are.
When you first drive one, be aware; this is a FAST and POWERFUL car that handles differently to a FWD car; and when you put your foot down all sorts of wonderful things happen. This is right before you plough into the guy driving along at 30 mph 200 yards down the road. Don’t scoff; I almost did when test driving mine.
Listen out for the turbo whine. It's hard to describe but you WILL hear a high pitched whine rising with the throttle position NOT just the engine revs.
If there is a boost gauge fitted check the speed at which the pressure spools up, it should be rapid at first and then tailing off.
Stock Boost levels are 8-10psi HELD, 12psi Overboost.
There is a boost limiter fitted to the Calibra Turbo that holds boost in 1st gear to 3 psi, so don’t try booting it in first not much ‘extra’ will happen. 2nd gear does not have this limit so that gear may be strained, so listen for crunching when changing into 2nd.
I find the best gear to 'feel' the turbo is 4th (you will get more 'umph' in third, and second is a riot but you need to feel the turbo spool up, so use 4th)
Check the road, make sure it is empty. (Someone behind you will NOT be a problem)
Sit at 1600 rpm in 4th and floor it, the turbo will start to make an effect at approx 3-3.5k and REALLY make a difference at 4k, the acceleration is something else if you are not used to a turbo so have a LONG straight to try it in.
You will pull to over 100mph in 4th so be careful!
Now do the same in 6th. Start at 45mph (the lowest 6th is comfortable at) and put your foot down. Feel how smooth the power delivery is through the rev range. Don't go too fast... you can do 160mph in 6th....
Cruise at 45mph in 6th and feel how the car drives, it should not struggle, even up a small incline; the C20LET engine is VERY torquey and pulls at very low revs.
The turbo can generally drive in one gear higher than you are used to, both because of the 6-speed gearbox, and the high torque engine.
If the owner allows (or just surprise him) put your foot down on a bend in a low gear and see if the front wheels spin... they shouldn't... there may be a SLIGHT scrabble for grip, but only minor.
You can sit the car on wet grass or a gravel strip, bring the revs to 3k and dump the clutch. Then go back and count the divots. 4 is good, 2 is bad.
The owner may not appreciate this.
When on full acceleration listen for ‘knocking’ from the engine, a sure sign of detonation and good reason to walk away.
A poorly fuelled Turbo will suffer from running lean and on full boost this WILL kill the engine. Melted pistons will occur and the one to watch is number 3 as this sits right behind the turbo. (so gets hotter during running)
Brake while driving over 16 mph, if you hear a knocking noise when braking then the TXB is shot, and we're back to the £1000 off discussion.
Talk to the owner, ask about:
• Tyre swapping, (front to rear, and how often) do NOT say why!
• Buying new tyres (how many at once... if he says anything else but 4, be worried)
• Accumulator bulbs changes
• Oil changes (which oil used, how often)
Lowering of the car
If the car is lowered, does it have a camber adjustment kit? This is VERY important with the 4x4 system as it can place a strain on the TX box. (as above it acts like tyres of different rotational diameters and can overheat the box very quickly)
See how knowledgeable he is, and ask about what work has been done to the car, ask about how he cools down the turbo (should run the engine on no boost for the last few miles of a journey and let the car tick-over for approx 30 seconds at the end (no more than a minute))
More detailed checks.
If you are willing to get dirty:
If the PAS fluid is low, then look underneath the car for the TX box, look for fluid (leaks) around it.
Look for the breather pipe out the top. This should be clean. If there is PAS fluid leaking out of here then the inner seals have blown and the TX box is dead. (Walk away at this point, or begin the £1000 off chat)
You can check the sump gasket now.
Is asmenines patirties - kaip jonce ir sake, pagalvok ar tau to reikia
net jei nusipirksi su veikianciu 4wd, turek omeny kad butinai reik keisti slegio akumuliatoriu(nepigu) kad ji ir toliau veiktu, jei nekeisi - nuais saibom ir prapus razdatkej esancia tarpine, o tada keisi razdatke (dar nepigiau
). Dar 4wd sistemai svarbu vienodai nudile padangos (nedaugiau 2mm skirtumas) VISOS VIENODOS, ne panasiu rastu, bet VIENODOS (t.y. suvarai viena = perki 4
) arba 5, nes sprogus ratui ir su zapaske kitokio rasto nuvaziavus kad ir tik 30km KEISI RAZDATKE
Zodziu 4wd weikiancio palaikymas yra brungus, gali aisku nieko ten nepriziuret kaip tikriausiai broliai lietuviai dazniausiai ir daro, tada neuzilgo vaziuosi tik priekiu
Turbininiam varikliui reikia geru tepalu. tik PILNA SINTETKA, keiciama kas 5000-7000 km (nesvarbu kad tarkim man susipylus MObil1 5w-50 rally formula kuriu litras kainuoja ~40Lt servise sake kad keist reiks uz 15000km - taip gali daryt, jei nori remontuot turba veliau
)
nu ir nznau ka dar. dalys brangesnes negu DOHC, retesnes savaime suprantama, priejimas prie variklio(remontui) - hujovas. tiek ziniu. sekmes renkantis
o instrukcijoj aikiai parasyta, kad uzdejus razdatke reikia istraukti sugikli Nr 19 !!! Tai atjungia 4x4 sistema ir todel nedrozi taip vadinamos "razdatkes", nors ir neistraukus 19 saugiklio 4x4 turetu automatiskai atsijungti del gr. dezes perkaitimo virs 160 laipsniu, zinoma jeigu tai normaliai veikianti sistema naujesne nei 91m. gamybos 
todel neina pastoviai su 4x4 vazineti ir reikia knopka spaudineti ;p
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